Jump to content
Kart Review UK

Heyhoe

Administrators
  • Posts

    387
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Heyhoe

  1. Heyhoe

    Super 1 R3

    until
    GYG - Junior TKM: TKM Extreme: KZ1: Honda: IAME Cadet: Junior X30; Senior X30
  2. Heyhoe

    Super 1 R4

    until
    Llandow - Junior TKM: TKM Extreme: KZ1: IAME Cadet: JuniorX30 & Senior X30;
  3. Heyhoe

    Super 1 R5

    until
    Buckmore Park - Mini Max: Junior Max: Senior Max: Junior TKM; TKM Extreme; IAME Cadet; Honda Cadet
  4. Heyhoe

    Super 1 R6

    until
    Fulbeck - Rotax Mini Max: Rotax Junior Max: Rotax Senior Max; Honda Cadet; IAME Cadet; X30 Junior; X30 Senior
  5. Heyhoe

    Super 1 R7

    until
    Larkhall - Rotax Mini Max: Rotax Junior Max: Rotax Senior Max; KZ1; Honda; X30 Junior & X30 Senior
  6. Heyhoe

    Super 1 R8

    until
    Shenington - Rotax Mini Max: Rotax Junior Max: Rotax Senior Max - Junior TKM - TKM Extreme - KZ1 – Honda
  7. until
    Kimbolton
  8. until
    Glan Y Gors
  9. until
    Rissington
  10. until
    Fulbeck
  11. until
    Kimbolton
  12. until
    Rowrah
  13. until
    Shenington
  14. Thoughts? I'm not so sure about the rear wing profile, it reminds me of the old A1GP cars. I'm all for increased grip, aero or mechanical so this should be hopefully be a big enough change for the engineers to extract some immense speed. IF they can do this while reducing the dirty air produced then bring it on! Future vision - the F1 car, 2017 style 06 Jan 2016 Share As excitement builds around the start of the 2016 season, Formula One engineers and designers already have one eye firmly fixed on 2017, when significant changes to the F1 rule book will dramatically alter the appearance of the cars, making them both wider and faster. The exact regulations may not yet be finalised, but with the help of drawings from technical illustrator Giorgio Piola, we take a look at how next year’s machines could look if recent proposals come to fruition... © Giorgio Piola The overhead comparison above highlights the key areas of change. Starting from the front, the nose of the car (1) is 20cm longer than in 2016, while the width of the front wing increases from 165cm to 180cm. However, the wing’s new delta shape means the distance between the front tyre and the endplate (2) remains unchanged, as does the endplate size. The tyres are wider, with tread width up from 24.5 to 30cm at the front (3) and from 32.5 to 40 at the rear (8). This in itself is expected to make cars around three seconds per lap quicker. Meanwhile, the overall width of the car increases from 140cm to 180cm. Restrictions on floor surface area means that rearward of the front of the cockpit (5) the car cannot be the maximum 180cm wide for its entire length (6), so there must be a cut-out at some point (7). Another proposal prescribes a minimum body width of 160cm at all points, which means the cut-out cannot be more than 10cm deep. Finally, the rear wing (9) is wider - up from 80cm to 95cm - with a bigger overhang © Giorgio Piola Looking at the 2016 and ’17 cars front-on, we can see that the rear wing is not only wider, but also lower. The drawing above also highlights the increased width of the tyres (2), the car itself (3), and the front wing (4). © Giorgio Piola A similar comparison from the rear of the cars again makes clear the lower and wider rear wing (1/2) and the wider rear tyres. It also shows us another change: an increase in the permitted height of the rear diffuser, up from 12.5 to 22cm. © Giorgio Piola It is not only the height of the rear diffuser that is different. More importantly, the side-on comparison drawing above shows that instead of starting from the rear axle, the diffuser starts 33cm in front of it (6). As well as the nose (1) and front wing (2) changes, this drawing also shows the return of large turning vanes (3) between the front tyres and the sidepods, as well as highlighting the bigger rear wing (5) with its larger overhang, which will help boost ground effect. Taken from www.formula1.com https://www.formula1.com/content/fom-website/en/latest/technical/2016/1/future-vision---the-f1-car--2017-style.html
  15. Some gorgeous looking engines in this class! Vortex RKZ TM KZ10C IAME Screamer 2 LKE LZ1 Maxter MS2 DEA FB-R5, FB-R7 Ryger 125 Revo Modena MKZ With added bling! SGM SR216X
  16. Senior OK Engines Vortex DDS TM S-Senior IAME Reedster 4 LKE LK1 (LK-J Shown) TE T101 Rexon HHC Ballerina
  17. Some really nice lighting going on. At least we know the game will LOOK good. Let's just hope the physics are as good as the visuals!
  18. Here is the stall at GamesCon 2015.
  19. Introduction Correct chain tension is crucial to achieve maximum performance from your engine and minimal energy loss in the drivetrain. In the case of having the chain too tight, you will not only zap your engines power but you will increase the wear on the engine crank and bearings. This can be costly if it's a regular occurrence. Having the chain too loose on the other hand, can often see the chain being thrown from the sprocket, usually causing damage to the sprocket, sprocket carrier, chain, engine or a combination of all. In the case of Rotax Max, it can damage the radiator, resulting in more expenditure. Worst of all, it will leave you angry and frustrated as you watch the remainder of the race from the sidelines! First impressions At £19.99 the Chain Monkey is similarly priced to other tools for specific tasks in karting. We think it's at the top end of what you would expect to pay for a tool which is relatively simple in design and construction. Clearly, a lot of time and effort has gone into the branding and marketing of this product. Everything from the monkey cartoon character to the Tru-Tension website is well presented and polished. The Chain Monkey comes in a plastic bag with the usual cardboard hanger. Inside, we find the instructions and a chain monkey sticker. Everyone loves stickers, don't they? On one side of the instructions we find how to set-up the Chain Monkey. On the reverse, it explains how to use the Chain Monkey for day to day use. Chain Monkey Sticker The actual Chain Monkey comes pre-assembled ready to go. The chain monkey fits all karting chains from the standard 219 pitch direct drive chains found on Rotax Max, Honda/IAME Cadets and TKM all the way through to the HD 428 pitch chains found on KZ and 250 gearbox karts. General Usage/Observations The important and most time consuming element of the Chain Monkey is setting the Chain Monkey to the correct tension. To do this you need to mount your engine and tension the chain to your ideal tension. Once this is completed, you need to fit the chain monkey, wind in the main spindle/screw until you take up all the slack in the chain and then wind up the lock nuts to the orange nut. In practice, we found it hard to lock the two locking nuts together as they are low profile nuts which means you cannot get a standard spanner on the middle nut when they are wound all the way up to the orange nut. We found it was actually easier to wind up the two locking nuts to the orange nut and lock them together by hand. We then carefully wound the main spindle out, removing the Chain Monkey and making sure the lock nuts did not move. We then tightened the two lock nuts properly. If the middle lock nut was replaced with a standard profile nut, we think you would be able to lock the two together whilst they are hard up against the orange nut. Below is a quick video tutorial produced by Tru-Tension on how to setup the Chain Monkey. Below are some images of the Chain Monkey in use on a KZ kart. The engine was tight and we were setting the Chain Monkey to the correct tension. Hooking on the Chain Monkey Tightening the main spindle to take up slack on pre-tensioned chain Tightening the lock nuts. We found this easier to do after removing the Chain Monkey. Once setup is complete, the Chain Monkey is ready to be used in anger. When you have changed a sprocket or any other work that requires the engine to be moved it's time to take out the Chain Monkey. Hang the chain Monkey on the chain, tighten the main spindle until the lock nuts reach the orange nut, slide the engine forwards until the chain is tight then tighten the engine. Remove the Chain Monkey by winding down the main spindle and hey presto! The chain is set to your pre-set tension. We found the chain monkey really helped when making large changes to gearing which meant the engine was moving a significant distance. We could simply attach the Chain Monkey and push the engine forwards without worrying about the tension. Once the Chain Monkey was removed, we were left with the correct tension. It's worth noting that the tension had great repeatability and we were always left with the correct tension. It can be frustrating when you think the tension is OK and tighten the engine, only to find it's actually too tight or too loose. After all, nobody enjoys squatting down to tighten or loosen engine clamps! We all agreed that this handy little device helps achieve a consistent chain tension. It also takes about the same time as winding out the engine stop on the kart. The design could be tweaked a little so that the main spindle is not required to be would out quite so far to un-hook the Chain Monkey, thus saving time. The “hook” part of the Chain Monkey could possibly be reduced in depth to aid with this. If you have a kart with an ill fitting engine mount or engine clamps you will still have the issue of the chain going tight when you tighten the front clamp or loose when you tighten the rear clamp. You need to make sure you engine is sitting properly on the chassis rails with no rocking. Summary A great idea which takes the guess work out of chain tensioning. Ideal for the novice who is unsure of the correct tension and an aid to the experienced mechanic who wants excellent repeatability time after time. With a tweak or two, the Chain Monkey could be even faster to set-up and use. That said, the product is new to the market and the manufacturers are open to constructive feedback from customers.
  20. I have not really paid much attention to this series as this is the ultimate "Arrive & Drive" series for young drivers (Up to the age of 17). The series is marketed as "The Road To F1". So there is no mistake which kind of clientele it is aimed at. So, including VAT for the Super FKS class, you are looking at £36,000 (without retaining kart and spares package) & £42,000 if you wish to keep the kart and equipment. Here is what you receive: I am going to try and compare this to the costs of racing in Super 1. Rotax used as an example. DescriptionQTYCostChassis13500Slicks141868Wets71085Engine13000Registration1155Entry71260Fuel87.5385Axles2250Carb2400Trolley1140Kart cover130Wet rims1200Datalogger1500Awning1600 Total13375Realistic additional items Spare engine13000 Total16375 These are the bare bones of the costs. Each series will cost more than this but this gives us a comparison of the actual cost of competing. Both series will incur more expenses. (But they should be pretty equal between the two) With both series you will have to take account of: TravelAccomodationSparesBreakagesIt's hard to make a true comparison as both series will have additional expenditure but I can't help but think you could do a year of S1 for no more than £20,000 where as FKS will cost you £42,000 (THIS IS JUST THE ITEMS LISTED!) If you are competing at this level as a youngster, chances are you will be running with a team. You will need to pay Team/Mechanic fees regardless of which series you are running in, hence the reason I have not included these prices in the comparison. I dare say you will be paying £6,000-£10,000 per season to a top team. One big advantage is the pooled engines, in rotax you will pay silly money for a quick engine. I would factor this into the budget but it's hard to put a value on this without hearing from somebody mid pack of S1 telling me how much they spend on the engine. Engine re-builds will also increase costs in Rotax too. It's also worth noting that I only used Rotax as an example. I dont really know the costs involved with engines in classes such as IAME cadet, Honda Cadet etc. Is this series worth the extra outlay for the TV coverage, prize fund etc? Or is this series just a quick easy way of trying to push your kids up through the ranks if your wallet is big enough? Also, is this series, with its extra exposure and media coverage actually damaging the sport with its "Road to F1" message, and it's age limit of 17? The SkySports coverage is on right before qualifying so no doubt gets a huge audience in comparison to more traditional series such as S1. Thoughts?
  21. We have continued to fine tweak the reviews section of the site. Our plan is to continuously add more features but right now the aim is to get some new and exciting new products reviewed!
×
×
  • Create New...